Of course some men do wear skirts. Before trousers were invented, all men wore skirts and some parts of the world have still not adopted trousers.
But I don't think you could say that skirts are commonly found in the wardrobes of your average western man.
Designers have tried to introduce them. Look at this video.
In 2002 the Victoria and Albert Museum hosted an exhibition called Men in Skirts. It was complimented by a catwalk event and featured skirts designed for men by the following designers: Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Bartlett, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ozwald Boateng, Dries Van Noten, Kenzo, Maharishi, Midas Clothing, Jean Charles De Castelbajac, Philippe Dubuc, Burberry, Dolce and Gabana, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Vohji Yamamoto, Daniel Moloney, Michiko Koshino, Anna Sui. The following year in 2003, The Metropolitan Museum hosted an exhibition called Bravehearts: Men in Skirts, which again explored the taboo of modern men wearing skirts. A march entitled Million Skirted Men was organised to support the event. Men were invited to gather, wearing skirts of course, at the Guggenheim and march to the Metropolitan. Apparently only about a hundred men took part, but it illustrates the efforts that have been made to promote the wearing of skirts by men.
So, why have skirts for men consistently failed to take off? Even Marc Jacobs, a designer who personally favours wearing skirts recognises the limitations of their appeal to the mainstream. Here is a quote from Androgyny An Abomination or Aphrodisiac for Not Just a Label, Darren Fernandes (2011) Whether there is greater acceptance of androgynous outfits shown on the catwalk, because they are protected and perceived as works of art that are disconnected from the ‘real’ world, there are definite socio-cultural limitations within which designers must work within to sell their pieces. For instance, when asked if he will introduce the skirt into his next men’s collection, even skirt-clad Marc Jacobs frankly answered “No.”
In terms of the history of clothes, trousers are a modern invention. Breeches, which were knee length with stockings worn on the lower legs, became established in the 1700's. Pantaloons were tight full leg length garments fastened down by foot straps, that were made fashionable by Beau Brummell in the early 1800's. Trousers originally referred to a garment worn over breeches to protect them from getting dirty when riding. Apparently sailors were early adopters of trousers for practical reasons. In general it seems that trousers are the practical choice compared to skirts, but I don't think this is the sole reason that men choose trousers. After all, women have just as much need for practicality. There are reasons for skirts being more practical for men than trousers. Anatomically a skirt should be more comfortable and less restricting than trousers. From a medical point of view, fertility is lessened if the temperature of the scrotum is raised (why else are the male testicles placed in such a vulnerable position-outside of the body). You could say skirts are the choice for virility.
They are also cooler in summer, and a wrap around skirt can be a lot easier in terms of fit and ease of putting on.
Nevertheless, I would concede that some men would baulk at the vulnerability that a skirt can confer. Take a look at this article by Neil Robinson for "Helium" and his own personal experiment.
I don't think that a skirt is intrinsically feminine. I would challenge anyone to call a Highland kilt or the Greek fustanella feminine.
It is the cut of a garment, along with the choice of fabric, colour and pattern that give it its gender.
These trousers are a lot more feminine than these skirts.
So what is it about skirts that put men off?
Judging from the articles above and just asking around, some men are afraid of ridicule. Is this because of an association with homosexuality, or cross dressing? How much of this is associated with gender stereotypes, and do women have a role in suppressing mens appetite for skirts because they feel threatened in some way. Is there an innate power associated with the skirt in terms of its shape and form that could be responsible for these strong feelings. Or is the skirt destined to be a niche garment, and instead of wondering why men don't wear it more, should we assume that women are lagging behind men in largely abandoning skirts as everyday wear?
These are the questions I will tackle in future postings.
Bibliography:
Google Images
No comments:
Post a Comment